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If you want to experience the absolute soul of Korean comfort food, you have to get comfortable walking down narrow alleys, sitting in tight spaces, and eating meals that arrive at your table literally volcanic and bubbling. During my latest exploration of Jongno-gu, I stopped by a legendary, tiny culinary institution that has been feeding locals, university students, and office workers for decades. This place has no English name on the door, only ten tables, and is run by fi